What Express filing for bankruptcy signals about Gen Z shopping habits

The multi-brand fashion retailer, whose portfolio includes Bonobos and UpWest, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on Monday. The company plans to close over 100 stores across the country, with shuttering sales already underway.

In a news release, the Express CEO signaled that the filing came as the company seeks to strengthen its financial position: "We continue to make meaningful progress refining our product assortments, driving demand, connecting with customers, and strengthening our operations," said Stewart Glendinning.

Express describes itself as a fashion-forward apparel brand that aspires to "outfit doers, makers, movers, and shakers with clothing designed for real-life versatility." It's tricky to place "formal" and "casual" in the same sentence, but from our perspective, that is exactly what Express has been trying to do.

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Despite attempts to appeal to more consumers with an expansive "Essentials" section and an array of relaxed jean styles — the company's inventory consists mostly of polished workwear, fitted chinos, palatable dresses, and tailored suits. Most Express pieces are under $100, but the brand seems to market itself more like Club Monaco or Ann Taylor. It's the lovechild of two clashing identities: modern athleisure and high-end luxury.

The news of the bankruptcy came as no surprise to me. The company has struggled to capture the shopping habits of the younger workforce, especially Gen Z'ers like myself — who are drawn to more comfortable apparel and styles that align with our lifestyle needs and personal values.

To put it bluntly, Express was just not letting us express… ourselves.

Why Gen Z is turning away from mall-based retailers like Express

At its peak, Express boasted a commanding mall-based presence. I still recall the intense scent of vanilla, moody dimmed lighting, and bright red walls with the bold logo across the entrance. Then arrived the dreaded "retail apocalypse." Between pandemic lockdowns and the rising power of e-commerce, physical storefronts had no option but to go digital.

Rather than reinventing itself as a digital-first brand, Express seemed to stay put. The website is straightforward enough; however, there's little expression of identity or character. It's felt unremarkable, to say the least.

Born into a tumultuous economy spinning with fast fashion, many in my generation have become acutely aware of where we shop and how we spend our money. Rather than shopping exclusively at one brand, I've witnessed more people turning to social media for style ideas reflective of cultural trends — aesthetics like Coquette, Barbiecore, Cottagecore, Clean Girl, and Coastal Grandma.

Perhaps we're a bit less superficial than our predecessors since the specific clothing pieces matter more to us than the store they come from or their price tag. Yet, instead of following future-forward trends and creating unique pieces, Express has emphasized what it knows best: blazers, boots, and basic business wear.

Many of my counterparts entered the workforce remotely. Few of us were slapped with strict dress codes. Some of us will admit to taking a Zoom call in sweats — all that matters is what they see from the top-up, anyway.

I'll let myself be an example. As a young mother, I pretty much live in matching workout sets. "Dressing up" means accessorizing those co-ords with chunky statement earrings and a nice purse.

While Express does have a "Luxe Leisure" offering, it's not nearly as leisurely as I'd like. Most pieces are embellished with unique cuts, colors, stripes, or clunky logos, which makes them more difficult to mix and match than other plain "lounge uniforms."

Gen Z is moving towards digital-first fashion brands that reflect cultural trends

So, where does the Express exit leave us? One thing is clear: brands must pay close attention to the shopping habits of Gen Z consumers. According to a Bloomberg report, early professionals have exceptional purchasing power, commanding $360 billion in disposable income.

For stores to not only survive but ideally thrive, they must stay atop cultural trends, hone in on the market for comfort-first clothing, and provide a strong, user-friendly digital experience for customers. Take the playbook of top retailers like lululemon, Nike, or my latest obsession — The Drop on Amazon, which partners with international trendsetters and influencers to design frequent limited-time collections in addition to wear-on-repeat staples.

These brands have skillfully mastered what it takes to move from millennials to Gen Z. Perhaps, with the right restructuring plan, Express could do the same. In the meantime, shop our Post Wanted selects from The Drop's latest sale right in time for Mother's Day.

Shop styles from The Drop's sale section

Standard Kendra Loose Fit Long Shirt

This classic soft cotton long-sleeve is a wardrobe essential. It's lightweight and airy and features a single-patch pocket to hold your belongings. It's one of the easiest tops for layering (just imagine adding some gold jewelry).

Lee Sherpa Bomber Jacket

This plush sherpa is neither loose nor clingy, it's designed to follow the body and finished with ribbed trim and the hem and cuffs for added style.

Jackson Scoop Neck Catsuit

Consider this the simplest outfit for your summer wardrobe. This body-hugging hot pink jumpsuit is made with recycled materials and has all the stretch you need to enjoy your hot girl walks.

Antonia Parachute Pant

Parachute pants are the ideal multi-functional garment, a combination of streetwear and workwear. This pair provides a looser, oversized fit to keep you comfy all day long.

Tulsi Ruffle-Sleeve Eyelet Maxi

This dainty black dress deserves to accompany you on your next beach day. Its flattering sweetheart neckline and loose-fitting skirt make it a staple for the casual luxury trend.

Yori High Rise Pocket Legging

These moisture-wicking, squat-proof leggings have a smooth feel and can easily be worn from the gym to the couch. Reviewers have said that the fabric is durable without being compressive.

Addison Soft Volume Top-Handle Bag

Deemed a "staple" by The Drop, this slouchy, ruched shoulder bag comes in 19 shades — including whisper-white fur among a variety of smooth faux leather options. It's just the right size for running errands, and customers love how it can easily be dressed up or down.

Pointed-toe Western Ankle Boot

Since cowboy core could be making a comeback this summer, we had to throw in this pair of pointed-toe Western Ankle Boots by The Drop. Shoppers said they're "so versatile," and easy to pair with dresses or jeans.

Anupa Cotton Tiered Midi Skirt

Is the Midi the new Maxi? We think so. This simple ruffled skirt offers an elastic waistband and hits a bit higher above the ankles, so you can show off your favorite pair of sandals.

 Noa Trench Coat

This stunning, drapey trench coat is a perfect transitional piece for Spring. The cotton nylon blend maintains its shape while providing a soft feel, and the tortoise brown buttons add a touch of sophistication.

Hunting for a headline-worthy haul? Keep shopping with Post Wanted.